The Fatherland

Arrived dinnertime to the Federation of Russia. I can’t believe it. A Master’s Degree in Soviet Studies (and International Economics) in 1982, and only just making it to the Fatherland 32 years later. Much has changed, certainly. We finally find the driver and he takes us back to the Domina Prestige, a nice, mod little hotel centrally located. We take a short walk only a few blocks to St. Issac’s Cathedral, sitting in St. Issac’s square and everything lit up – and then hit the hay. Our tour guide will be waiting for us in the lobby at 8 am!

Up, meet Elena, and our driver Nellie, and off we go. A whirlwind itinerary, so as to pack everything in in our two days. We start by driving around all of the main sights, getting a lay of the land. we descend down to steep escalators to take a ride on the (for good reason) subway,

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and exit into a lovely farmer’s market, where everyone is just setting up.

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We score some dried apricots and back onto our route. We are dropped off at the hydrofoil, which we ride for about 30 minutes out to the Peterhof summer palace. We arrive just in time to see and hear the opening ceremony of the fountains (over 150 in the whole park).

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Peter the Great admired Versailles and wanted to build something even grander. All of the fountains work on gravity and are quite lovely. There are even a number of “trick” fountains that go off when you sit on a bench (and then get you quite soaked) or walk on a certain stone. Fun watching tourists try to outsmart the system.

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From there we drive to the Tsar’s village and eat outside (and they give us each blankets!) some traditional Russian food. Fish soup, beet salad, kasha and dark bread. Afterwards, we drive to Catherine’s Palace with the Amber room and so many other breathtaking rooms. Catherine loved to do it up in grand style, and almost every room is evidence of that.

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Elena and I:

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We walk through the gardens, back into our sedan, and take the hour long drive back to our hotel room. I’m super-tired and crash for a two-hour nap, until Lance queries in my ear “do you want to go to dinner?” Please.

We dress and hit the street and walk a bout 15 minutes to the Number One Russian Vodka Room. Can’t decide if it’s promising or touristy, but we have a lot of fun. There’s traditional music being played and a vodka menu with over 200 varieties. We try 3 each,

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and instead of the traditional pickled and salted veggie accompaniments, I order blini with salmon caviar (no, not springing for the good stuff yet!).

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The pancakes are lovely, as is the vodka. There was no way for us to choose, so we took the recommendations of the waiter. One was a horseradish vodka and that was my favorite!

After the rest of our dinner, and dessert, we walk through the vodka museum. Interesting, but would have been more so had we been able to read everything that was in there!

So full after dinner that we go for a looong walk. Back by the Cathedral, down Nevsky Prospect and looking for some nice after dinner music. We go into one club that the Concierge recommended, but it was for karaoke only (and evidently for people less than half our age). We popped into the W, which had an 8th floor bar with a nice view, but every table was taken. We order coffee in the street-level bar, but taking so long we decide to pack it in and head home. Tomorrow is another jam-packed day!

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