Up very early for the drive back to the El Calafate airport. Completely uneventful and smooth, so plenty of time to fill car with gas (always a line down the street – many people bring jugs to fill as well) and stop in a bakery for coffee and pastry.
Airport check in, and this flight goes like clockwork. We land in Ushuaia, take a taxi to the office for the Australis check in (and they keep our suitcases for delivery to the boat and we’re allowed to board between 5:30 and 6) and we walk the streets. Plenty of touristy stores, of course, but many are closed because Monday and Tuesday are national holidays.
We walk up a side street and stop in a parilla for some lunch. No all-you-can-eat buffet for us, we order lamb (which has been splayed and roasted over a small pile of red hot log coals) and share papas fritas and steamed veggies. So yummy, I once again dig in with my (quickly greasy) fingers.
There are a couple of cuts on there, including the kidney. I’m feeling bold, so I start to cut off a bite of that kidney, but when the inside turns out to be blood red, I cannot do it captain!
Appetites sated, we wander around, hoping to find a replacement hat for one Lance lost, as well as a lens cap. He’s definitely been hanging around me too much! Once we’ve made a pass through, we head down to the waterfront and watch the more elaborate celebration, with dozens of kids running around with cans of what looks to be something like a cross between whipping cream and silly string. It’s a tradition, I suppose. Lots of loud, live music, and a couple hundred people enjoying the festivities.
The crisp breeze is blowing and we walk slowly down toward the docks. We walk all the way to the end
and check out some supply ships bound for Antarctica, a huge Holland cruise line passenger ship, and there sits our mid-size little beauty. Looks small next to the big cruise liner, but I like smaller. We walk slowly, wondering about all the people lined up to board a 3-rig old school schooner, and before we know it, it’s about 5:10, and we see a few people going up the gangplank to our ship, Via Australis, so we follow suit:
Goober that I am, I am excited as a schoolgirl, and I laugh and cry as we are led to our room.
I’m excited and scared, in equal measure. But my senses are on heightened alert, and every new sound and sight brings forth more questions and stories. Lance and I unpack and walk around to discover the ships innards, and all is well. Safety lecture and welcome cocktail at 6:30. The ship gets underway and there’s a spectacular view of the entire town, nestled at the foot of the mountains:
We are assigned to Table 9 for our entire voyage, and we find we have only 3 dining companions (other tables have 7 and 8), who are traveling together: a retired couple from Amelia Island, in north-western Florida and another man from Grand Rapids Michigan. We discuss a bit about our interests and travels, and Mr. GR starts playing what feels like travel one-upmanship. Whatever. Loved the king crab appetizer!!
After dinner, off to sleep in our lovely cabin, with a huge glass that I love staring out of – it’s like a constantly streaming movie of the ocean and mountains in Tierra del Fuego. How about that?