Determined to make the bike trip happen, all troops are up earlier than usual. First, Matt and I take Michael to the Saturday market because he has not yet made it to a morning market. We head out on our street, as we do each morning:
Cross over and head down the main drag into the old city (It’s still very quiet so early in the morning. In two hours, it will be packed with people):
Through the flower market in the first square:
And then we arrive at the bi market and we are delighted to see that this is the biggest market of the week (who knew?) and there are vendors out today that we have not yet seen. **FOODIE ALERT** Homemade pasta, more cured meats (Matty having a sample):
Mushrooms, anyone?
OH! The bread man. Without thinking twice, I am drawn as if by a magnet to get in the line for this particular baker. But what to get? Which looks the crustiest? The organic biologically complete loaf that is dark and crusty with nuts running through the center? A traditional baguette that crackles when he cuts it? Because this bread is sold by the kg, not the piece.
When its my turn, I point to a few, and ask his recommendation for one other. A big smile of anticipation on my face:
Meanwhile, the boys are doing their own thing, but see a cured meat stand right next to the bread. There are 4 varieties of little sausage sticks. Michael is intending to buy a few, but I push for him to get the 15 lot that is priced on the sign. He samples goat cheese, Cajun and herbs de Provence. Mmmmmm.
Speaking of spices, of course there are tables filled with freshly made herbs de provence, as well as a multitude of other fresh choices:
The weekly paella booth (yes, that pan is about 4 feet wide):
Should I get that cooked chicken or not?
We head straight home,roust the girl, sample some of our wares for breakfast:
and soon we are marching out the door at a little after 10. We select our bikes and helmets and begin to make our way out of the city. In big traffic for only about 5 minutes, then heading out of town on a moderately sized thoroughfare.
As we pedal, the traffic diminishes and we are rolling through residential neighborhoods and the more “real” area of Aix. In about 20 minutes we are passing unplanted fields surrounded by rows of tall trees and old cottages and it feels like we are definitely in the land of the master impressionists. It’s so easy to see the origin on their paintings and why they chose this area. We pass through a little town qui s’appelle Le Tholonet and head off to the right. Realizing we have take a wrong turn, we turn around and get on the right track.
The dude in the bike shop told us that this was the moderate path, pretty flat with one large hill. We beg to differ; it’s a continual up and down with a large hill! a lot of huffing and puffing by your truly, but we all do just fine. Especially the least athletic of all of us – Mr. Michael, who is singing along, commentating our ride like we are in the Tour de France and sailing along with no hands from time to time.
The Montagne Sainte-Victoire grows closer and closer. Here it is behind us:
It was an important subject for Cezanne, and in fact, the route we are riding is designated as Route Ceazanne. We pass by the Moulin (windmill) Cezanne and keep pedaling until we arrive at the park at the foot of the mountain (although any good Coloradan would scoff at this label). We stop, I fall to the ground, and this turned into a major stick snack stop. The kids eat and judge the 3 varieties they acquired this morning. I suggest walking up the path to Cezanne’s little cabin, but when we start the hike, the vertical climb of the path discourages me immediately. I’m too tired!
So, back on the bikes we go. As we pass certain fields, I inform Michael of the crops we pass, grapes and olives:
And then he points out to me – snails! Everywhere in the rocks and clinging to the tall grass:
On the way back, we stop at the windmill for a few pictures:
We make it back to town, drop off the bikes, and head immediately to my favorite gelato store. Tay gets a cone, which is formed so artfully like a flower:
Then back to our apartment. It’s sibling night out, so they are doing their own thing. I shower and head out the door to visit various locales for live, free music. First to a little “place” with a beautiful fountain and an accapella performance. Then head up to the university area for a quartet, but they aren’t playing when scheduled. Just enjoy being out on a beautiful day. Stop at a recommended Vietnamese takeout place and pick up some lovely looking dishes to eat in the apartment, as I am still whooped from the bike ride. So much time, but always on the go, it seems. Haven’t really read much of my books, but have gotten beat by Matt in cribbage plenty of times! Kids are heading out when I return. I enjoy my delicacies, then head out once again to pick up our rental car to drive into the Luberon for the day tomorrow. The reservation says Gare Aix en Provence, but there is no office there and I then follow signs to Gare TGV (the high speed train), but after walking a couple of miles, it looks like the trail is heading out of town and I give up. Bummer. I’m beat and head straight back and have a quiet end to the day.