Here I am in the Cappadocian town of Urgup (check your map!), a popular spot for tourists because of the unusual formation through valleys and across the landscape. Referred to as Faery chimneys, you may decide for yourself what they resemble. After breakfast out on the terrace with a beautiful view,
a taxi driver to take us down to Kaymakli and Derenkulu, two underground villages used first by Hittites, but then pervasive throughout all villages in the area, to escape invading marauders (of which there were many throughout the country’s history). Completely luxurious in comparison to the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam! Here is some information and a map of the layout of the village (and there was a camera crew from an Asian travel channel inside taking pictures as well):
I only toured through the first underground city, an suffered through a moment of claustrophobia (for you, Ida!) when I had to crouch down to go through tunnels and there was a whole tour group around us. Sat and breathed, turned on some tunes, and then all better. For the second go round, I took a short snooze in the backseat of the car, listening to the roll of the dice from two men playing backgammon:
I”m sure that I’ve forgotten to mention how widespread backgammon is in this country. There are tea houses where men (only) sip their apple tea (again, pervasive) and play backgammon and chatter for hours. In any cafe, one need only ask for a set and it’s game on. I was never a big fan, but the tide could be turning on that one!
Next stop after this tour was the trailhead for the Zemi valley. A 5 kilometer easy hike through one of the valleys filled with unusual formations. Here is the view from the trailhead before descent:
and all along the way (including hanging onto the rope to descend at one vertical point):
see the cave dwellings just above the tree line on the right?
About 2 1/2 hours later, out the other side of the valley, I turn left, and walk into the town of Goreme. In hindsight, it may have been more convenient to set up base there, but it is a more touristy spot, hence the original decision. Just have to shuttle back and forth for hiking purposes!
Very hungry as the clock heads toward 3 pm, we chat with a gentleman in a tour office about other hiking options, then follow his recommendation on a lunch spot. We head over to Cafe Turca, climb the stairs to their terrace area, and my face lights up with a smile as I settle down amongst the cushions and pillows on the floor. I order a local specialty: clay pot kabob. We request a backgammon board, and the waiter reviews rules and strategy for us and we begin to play while waiting for our food. Here it comes! The waiter pulls our a hot mitt and small hammer as he proceeds to tap open the clay pot and pour my chicken into the bowl:
and how was it? Yes, indeed, quite scrumptious, particularly when mopped up with the incredibly fresh bread:
and a shot of town:
After our more than filling lunch, we walk around, looking for a nagile (hookah) cafe. We finally find the Caffedocia ( oh, what a cute play on words!), find some comfy chairs outside on the terrace, and order coffees and red apple flavored tobacco. Unfortunately, they have just run out of red apple, so the final choice is for grape (really?). After a short rainshower, coffee, another game of backgammon and some puffs on the pipe. Although it looks like I am spewing the hot air that’s usually streaming from my mouth, I am actually forming beautiful smoke rings!:
The bus schedule has disappointing news, so it’s a taxi back to Urgup. The driver suggests a stop at the panoramic sunset point. Indeed, the spot is filled with Japanese tourists, and vendors selling dried nuts, fruits, coffee (check out the evolved camping coffee pot), and fresh-squeezed juice:
The view from the point:
and the spectacular sunset (oh yes, I have a dozen more where this came from!):
It’s been a long, busy day (I’m noticing a pattern here; I hope you are too! This is why I have not stayed more current on blog postings). We finally arrive back at the hotel and wash up from the dusty trail and enjoy a quiet evening at home, eating fruit on the terrace and enjoying the cool evening.