Papua New Guinea was one of the last entries on my dive bucket list. Being so primitive and unknown, I waited until I had a travel partner to share the adventure with. Found one and off we went. 8 days on the mainland; time up around Mt. Hagen, in the highlands, and then down in the Sepik river basin, riding the river daily to visit villages and learn about life there. Because my blogposts are getting more succinct (to ensure I actually make them), I share some, but not all, highlights. There are no words to help you understand what it’s like to stand by the jungle thicket and hear a cacophony of life unlike any other experienced. The feeling of awe and a sense deep in your bones that you are really fucking out there! Sitting on the patio of your lodge room, looking down-slope and across the river and the only thing in view to the horizon in all directions is jungle. To be awakened in that jungle by the beat of drums, waking the village. Another drumbeat to send the children off to school in their canoes. The smiles of genuine pleasure and extended hand to shake, welcoming you. I counted 5 occasions when, after informing a local my country of origin, to hear back (yes, these exact words): “a very powerful country.” To enter a village where almost everything in use is foraged and crafted from the river and the woods It’s an 8 – 10 hour canoe ride to the nearest town! How many places can you still visit that the rhythm of life is so close to its past? Not many.
After 7 plane rides, Drew and I arrived at Mt. Hagen, and headed straight to several villages, where local rituals were performed for us. Some of them are no longer practiced, but most only a few times each year. One of our favorites was the Palgo Mud People. Legend says that two tribes were at war and the loser fell back, not knowing what to do. They came upon natural mud baths, covered themselves, then went back to battle. However, the white mud made them appear like ghosts to the other tribe, who fled the scene. Well, you can figure out what happened after that, and why they maintain the protective “camouflage.” See for yourself:
Another ritual was conducted from the men’s hut, to ensure a successful marriage for one of the men. He lit a fire using only local materials; if the wood lit, then all would be well. If not, then I guess they called the whole thing off! Luckily, it all worked out this day:
Shaman in his hut:
Then off to the lodge, where we were the only guests.
and we so enjoyed it all. We hiked the orchid trail and a luscious jungle trail
that led past creeks, fairy moss walls and who knows what all, honestly. The next morning we were back to the airport and on a small charter plane filled with only the two of us, the Aussie pilot and a shit-ton of supplies for Karawari lodge.