Uh oh. Sat bolt upright in bed at 5 am, nauseous and thinking I’m sol. I took a cipro anti-biotic imemdiately and laid back in bed, sitting up. After the not-surprising wake up call that came later, I popped a few more pills and got going on the day, because we’re back in touring mode today!
Vikram picked us up at 9:30 and we headed to the Amber Fort, perched way up in the hills (you can stand in town and see several forts around). A great picture on approach:
as we also watched people ride elephants up the road into the main plaza.
Not for us. Inside the walls were beautiful domes, painted walls and sculpted doorways. Some of the views (hazy out, so hard to get clear pictures):
We walked through, battling the crowd of tourists, and stood where the Maharaja watched over his harem, received guests, spent the summer months in rooms with water canals that were placed so breezes would blow over and cool the room (ingenious), and the hall of mirrors:
It is currently being renovated, but has the most beautiful work inlaid with mirrors. A little bit closer now:
Even thought some of the plaster has been chipped off and most of the paintings covered over by conquering emperors who didn’t want this fort more beautiful than theirs (do people ever change?), the work done with only chisels remains beautiful. Here is a whole wall of flowered and star lattice work:
It is incredibly smooth and solid and so beautiful. Women not allowed to be seen could watch from behind these carvings.
Off we go to the old city, but stop for a sit
and a picture of the Water Palace.
The beautiful one in Udaipur has been converted to a hotel. This one was leased to a developer for 99 years, but the new Congress says there was not the autorhity to lease for more than 33, so it is now in the court system.
We male a stop at the turban museum, which I know about thanks to my friend Marvin, who visited a couple of years ago. We examine the traditional turbans worn by different professions and castes and are surprised to learn that there are different colors for different days of the week for some. This is no clip-on tie, no tie it and forget it headgear; these dudes tie the intricate patterns ever morning when they wake. We have seem quite a few turbans during our stay, but not too prevalent. Mostly businessmen and occasionally older men.
We then head to the bazaar for a walk-through, viewing rows upon rows of shops selling saris, lace, beads, and all manner of household items. Of course, there are the ubiquitous snack shops:
Here’s one selling (real) money fanned out and attached to sticks, etc, for gifting (upper left):
As I mentioned before, clients walk into their chosen shop, sit down, and the men working inside roll out all kinds of material as preferences and prices are discussed.
(don’t know what they’re looking at here)
I was lucky to capture a few of these sessions in action, including one of a bridegroom selecting his wedding suit:
Women shopping for wedding material:
Looking down the way:
A chai purveyor wedged in a narrow spot between the vendor spaces:
After we’ve covered a good portion of the area, checking out the street where bangles are made (and made by those born into the proper caste for bangle-making), fresh piles of tobacco, spices, and bright colors for festivals and for marking the forehead if you are a married woman,
and the line of men making flower garlands:
we hop back into our little van and head tothe block printing shop, which I’ve requested, and finish our souvenir shopping (yea, “our”, like Matt’s shopping), have a yummy lunch outdoors with Vikram, who is introduced to the wonders of cribbage. We discuss political and social changes in India and hear many of the same themes we’ve heard elsewhere. A great opportunity to be “in” as opposed to just looking “at” this great country.
Next stop, the polo fields (where entry is free):
to take in a match (and no, we didn’t run into Richard Gere and Julia Roberts, although we did see the Maharaj, father of current Maharaja. The previous Maharaja died last Spring, but he only had two daughters, so he adopted one of his grandsons as his own son, and that 13 year-old is the current Maharaja). There was a lot of eating, starting with a man and a cart outside the front door. Don’t know what he was making, but it sure looks pretty! (I think you point at what you want and he mixes it together and serves you):
The glitterati appeared to be socializing and munching away under banners and I snapped a picture of the scene. I found the people in the lower left the most interesting – they were folding and kneading dough for making naan, I assume.
We sat up in the moderately sized, but covered with a roof and chairs with cloth, grandstand and watched the game. Oh, and a gentleman in uniform came through and served tea to everyone, and a bit later, two younger men came to collect the (china) cups. So civilized! The game was interesting, but a bit lopsided. We headed back to the hotel after, as I was pretty tired, and we have a 4:45 am wake-up call to get to the airport for a 7 am flight through Delhi to Kolkota. We’re there for the afternoon and evening, then fly out the next morning up north. Matty and I are both pretty excited about this upcoming portion of the trip. Hiking! Yay! Tea! Yay! Mountains! Yay! Totally cold! BOOOOO!